Then I fix the baseplate of the model on the glass. One solution could be to use ultra-thin but solid lines on the part and print the "code" outside the part.
You strategically place dots of the stuff along one surface of those to be joined, smear white glue on the rest of the area and press firmly together.
I use modelers quality with low viscosity, and apply the glue with a piece of thin piano wire dipped in the glue and then applied drop by drop to the model. If there is anybody who knows the name of this glue in the US, and knows where to get it please let me know.
This allows me to contort parts and fix their shape using pins and time. According to NewswatchTVContour has designed an ergonomic station deemed as one of their most popular solutions. Stiff cardboard or wood is the usual choice, depending on the size of the model.
I use the cutters sharpened on the outside when I want to keep the hole and the others when I want to waste the hole. I solved the problem by scoring from the front, was ok. Or to follow a broad curved line.
Use fresh sandpaper, because as it wears and gets dull it will tear rather than cut the fibers, and you end up with a fuzzy edge.
So here is my answer to the second question - the fold lines MUST present on the model cutouts as thin black or with contrasting color lines. A good example of this is the leading edges of aircraft tail surfaces, where a soft radius edge is required.
The wheel is very wobbly but if you slightly peen the rivet it works really well, at least for me. The corollary of this is that sometime when putting glue on the inside of a join, it is worth wetting the outside so that there is no distortion of the paper.
You can make the initial cuts at an angle, or use sandpaper or an emery board to make the bevel. It makes very round, repeatable disks or holes. First, the acrylic dries glossy, therefore I had to paint a second time with white glue, to cover the gloss.
Moistening the outside of the card will take the curve out. Rubber cement is removable without any problems from every surface. I always score the front side.
Despite that scoring and folding lines coincide, I see a sharp difference between them - the first ones are for technological purposes and the second ones are real and always present on the finished model. Edges may be held together using the magnet method I described and long joints may be strengthened considerably by placing a piece of match stick inside abutting both joints.
I have no idea if they will offer english pages after this date. Jon Murray, alias the Snipper of Cardformation also suggests using empty of course shell casings. The punch pliers are a perfect tool for most holes in scale 1: Leaving the theory apart, with some practical experiments we can convince ourselves that the presence of the thin hairlines on the folding edges improve the view of the model, also masking the inevitable inaccuracy of the paper folding.Thought Of The Day.
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